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Mt Washington - page 2 of 4

The lower part of the Fan was a jumble of massive boulders, not unlike the terrain in King Ravine. As I climbed higher, the rocks gradually became smaller. A variety of wildflowers grew among them, including three-toothed cinquefoil and mountain sandwort.

About three-quarter of the way up, I got my first good look at Pinnacle Gully, one of the most popular rock and ice climbing areas in the ravine. Pinnacle Gully arises out of the left side of Central Gully. You can't see it from down below as it's hidden by the Pinnacle Buttress, a feature that rock climbers love to tackle. A thin twisting waterfall tumbled down the center of the gully.

A bit further up the trail, I came to a spot where a small brook had taken over the trail. I figured that this was a good chance to fill a water bottle with nice cold water, so I took out my filter and pumped enough to fill a bottle, and then refill it again after quickly gulping down half of it.

At the top of the Fan, just before entering Central Gully's large dihedral (inside corner), the trail turned sharp right to cross the brook and began ascending a steep smooth slab. At this point, I stopped to change into my rock climbing shoes and collapse my climbing poles, stashing both inside my pack for later.

For a short distance, there were no appreciable handholds, but I leaned forward and advanced slowly, smearing the smooth surface of the rock with the full sole of my shoes. After that, there was a nice crack to wedge my fingers into, and I soon emerged at the top of this first pitch, which some have referred to as the crux of the climb.

Above that were several more slabs, but these had more options for handholds and/or nice rough dihedrals to wedge my toes into, so they were no real problem beyond the exertion of steep climbing.

At one point in this series of slabs, I met a group of rock climbers on their way down. They appeared to be a class, probably on their way to the Pinnacle. One of the leaders commented on my rock shoes, saying that I was smart for wearing them. Most hikers don't wear rock shoes on the Huntington Ravine Trail, and they aren't really required, but I was more comfortable wearing mine, and I'm certain that the greater traction they provided made my climb more enjoyable.

As I ascended higher, the trail evened out somewhat, although there were still a few interesting spots. At one point, which I personally considered the crux move, there was a shallow chimney. At first, I thought that it might be easier climbing up the small buttress to the right of the chimney, but I finally decided that the chimney itself was a better route, as I could wedge the edges of my shoes in the crack and push out against the sides with my hands.

Beyond that point, the climb became significantly easier, and before I knew it, I emerged out of the ravine onto the Alpine Garden.

Three-toothed cinquefoil. This wildflower tends to grow in exposed rocky areas such as Huntington Ravine.

In the Fan. The lower part of the Fan is a jumble of huge boulders that you have to climb over and/or around.

Pinnacle Gully. Not visible from the floor of the ravine, Pinnacle Gully arises out of the left side of Central Gully. It's one of the more famous rock and ice climbing areas.

Looking back down Huntington Ravine from the trail about 3/4 of the way up the Fan. Part of the Wildcat ski area is visible in the distance.

A small brook takes over the trail. I stopped here to filter an extra bottle of cold water.

Slab climbing. After turning right off the top of the Fan, the trail ascends this rather smooth slab, which is much steep than it looks in the picture. The best route up includes the large crack at the top center.

More slab climbing. The trail continues up several more slabs, but there are plenty of options for handholds. I wore my rock climbing shoes above the Fan for greater traction.

Looking down. The curving line winding out of the ravine is the Huntington Ravine Fire Road, which gives snow tractors access for winter rescues. It is a very rocky but wide path, much rougher than the Tuckerman Ravine Trail.

Another steep section in the trail. The best route up here was the chimney to the left of the yellow blaze.

Mountain sandwort. This plant is often found hiding among mossy slabs of granite.

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